January 10, 2008

I woke up again with the first strains of dawn, making sure to pack up my things in a hurry, seeing as I was essentially camped out on someone’s backyard dune. In my stealth gear (black fleece, black spandex, black Chaco sandals) I left the dune to continue down the beach. After a mile, I cut into the town of Kill Devil Hills to find Nags Head Forest Preserve, for a little change of pace from the beach-walking. Following eery little back roads, where the roads were half paved, half overgrown grassy lanes. With the help of some directions, I got into the park. Algae covered swamps passed on either side of me, lots of vines covering the canopies of trees, some of them green in the middle of winter. I wonder what it’s like in the summertime when everything is green – probably wild and intimidating.

I was surprised to see private driveways and a few historic cemeteries along the road – what kind of person chooses to live in a SWAMP? Seriously. Back in the 19th century, people did live there, apparently. Ominous “keep out” signs crowned every road. I finally reached what looked like the end, as a sand cliff dove 15-20 feet to a bit of sand and the Palmilco Sound. I tried to walk down by the beach, but changed my mind, deciding instead to take the private road connected to the rode I was on to see where it led – to see if I could connect it to Jockey’s Ridge State Park (the official start of the Mountain-to-Sea Trail). Eventually, I navigated a series of road to find a coastal area and managed to squirm my way along the coast, over grassy tidal zones, into the park.

I took the back route to the top of the tallest dune on the Atlantic Coast (90-100 feet depending on the day). It was pretty spectacular. On the top, I met a girl who works for Outdoor Provision in Raleigh! I’m going to visit the shop when I get there. When I get there. I introduced myself at Jockey’s Ridge visitors center, to the 3 women who work there (and were very excited for my journey). I passed the first blaze of the trail and headed to the beach for some MST loveeeee.

Passed by a fisherman who I saw yesterday. Another bad catch, he said. I watched the clouds with curiousity. In Nags Head, I walked into town for some coffee, chocolate resupply, and Taco Bell. I talked for about half an hour to a gentleman on a bicycle who has always wanted to do the Appalachian Trail. We talked about, of all things, evolution. I walked on the road a little as I now have 3 blisters. At dusk, I headed to the beach to find someplace to camp. I am in the crotch between a couple dunes and my tent is hopefully more secure than last night, when it nearly collapsed on me! I have just entered Cape Hatteras National Seashore. I am feeling the OBX love. My legs are a little sore tonight. It was a long day.

2:15 am
It seems as though I just cannot stay asleep for longer than 6.5 hours. It doesn’t help that the wind is shaking my tent like a Polaroid picture. My back stake came out so I had to go out and tack it back down. A day and a half on the beach and already I feel weather-worn from the elements. What happens when it rains? Or gets cold? Hopefully then I will have a better tenting spot (or longer tent stakes). I swear, I must have ingested enough sand to make an ordinary gizzard very happy… if humans had grinding gizzards like chickens do.

I have yet to get into the rhythm of this trip. It still feels first date awkward, hopefully one of those times we can look back on together and laugh about.